Tuesday, July 29, 2008

More researching Northside

So I've been poring over my data for my summer research project and some interesting themes have emerged. Census data reveals that the 90's saw a dramatic rise in vacant housing units in the neighborhood, as well as a dramatic rise in the number and percentage of African American residents. While that decade saw population decline, per capita income rose and the percentage of educated professionals likewise. Apparently that decade was when Northside's postindustrial/white flight downward spiral began to be reversed.

It is an interesting combination of historical trends. Abandoned houses stack up and poor residents crowd in while young professionals begin rehabbing the housing stock.

The 70's and 80's saw dramatic declines in the numbers and percentages of neighborhood residents who were employed in blue-collar jobs, e.g. production and repair, crafts/trades, and operating, assembling, and materials hauling. The old industrial base was withering away.

In the 90's the old blue-collar people are replaced by two distinct groups that emerge as a product of the bifurcation of labor market in the postindustrial era: the urban underclass and the educated new elite. Somehow in Northside they exist side by side, middle-class and poor, black and white, in what seems to be an uneasy coexistence. Northside is diverse, but micro-level patterns of segregation definitely exist. I wish I had census data by block and not just census tract. Then I would be able to do a much more thorough analysis of Northside micro-urban geography.

In studying the old local business community I am surprised by how many auto and truck-related businesses there were on Spring Grove. There were three car dealerships, lots of machine shops, a handful of auto parts places, tire shops, and others.

Northside had lots of machine shops until a decade or two (or three) ago, as did the industrial Mill Creek Valley. Spring Grove Avenue tied Northside into an industrial artery that stretched from the West End, through Camp Washington, and out to Saint Bernard, Elmwood Place, and Cathage. Machine tooling was one of the major industries Cincinnati lost in the corporate reorganization/recession/Reaganomics/outsourcing era of the late 70's and 80's. OPEC embargoed oil, the economy tanked, the dollar flopped, the planet's financiers shuddered as a result, and jobs went South - literally and figuratively. If you want a good intro just watch Roger and Me, which is both funny and poignant.

Cincinnati was lucky to have a fairly diversified economy. We had furniture making, wagon making, meatpacking, soap making, and stuff like that but we lost almost all of it. Crosley Corporation pioneered appliance breakthroughs like refrigerators with shelves in the doors, major radio innovations, and even made a car briefly. Unlike industrial cities that experienced more apocalyptic declines (e.g. Detroit, Cleveland, Buffalo) we also had other major economic sectors that were more insulated from deindustrialization: Banking (Fifth Third), aerospace (GE), consumer products (P & G), the Kroger's national headquarters, a major medical sector, and others. Cincinnati Milacron (formerly the Cincinnati Milling Machine Company) cleverly reinvented itself as a plastics/injection molding firm when the machine tool industry went the way of the Studebaker. So Cincinnati soldiers on, not as bad as Detroit but still steadily bleeding people and money to the exurbs and younger, sexier cities in the Sunbelt.

A few years ago my father's sister moved to Phoenix. She is the first member of his family to leave Cincinnati for another region (and economy) since his people came here to escape the German Wars of Unification and Otto Von Bismarck's persecution of German Catholics in the Victorian era. The rest of my family - redheaded stubborn descendants of German Catholic peasants - looks on in awe and asks her endlessly what it is like to live in the desert, which only a few of us have seen. She has not only moved thousands of miles, she tells us that Arizona is totally different way of life - less harried, less cut-throat. She has no grass in her yard and she lives in a city in which almost all of the adults are transplants from somewhere else. They have a solar power industry and desert mountains ring the city. It is another planet to us. We can no more imagine living in a place without smog, Hudepohl beer, goetta, omnipresent German surnames, a big dirty river, old factories, and ubiquitous honeysuckle and maple trees than we can imagine living underwater. The Queen City is nothing if not insular; my professors complain that none of their students ever want to move away to further their careers. A freind of mine who was born in New Jersey has family that was totally befuddled upon moving to Cincinnati as to why people kept giving them directions using landmarks that no longer exist. (I sometimes find myself doing this.) While Cincinnati continues to make soap out of sheer inertia (or stubbornness) - a remnant of the Queen City's all-but-vanished meatpacking legacy, Arizona is dreaming up an electric-powered sports car. They are the future and we live in the wreckage and detritus of the past. Technology and culture have largely passed us by. We aren't starving, but we tend to hear about trends when they are nearly over in more dynamic places. We look backwards because it is usually more comfortable for us. If the future is now Cincinnati is last week. Remember what Mark Twain said.

Speaking of detritus and wreckage, here are the pictures I took today for my paper:


4288 Spring Grove: Spring Grove Construction Equipment. Used heavy equipment sales and parts.

former location of the Spring Grove Monument Co. until 1997.


4330 Spring Grove: The Old Timber Inn. Tavern/restaurant in current location since 1982.

I hear the fish log special is pretty good.


4312 Spring Grove. Apparently being used for storage.



4275 Spring Grove: B & B Tire Town. In current location since 1978 when Bob saved up money from selling tires out of his basement to buy the shop.

Was previously occupied by the Stillpass Service Station.

A great place for cheap oil changes and used tires. I replaced a whitewall on my 84 Chev for $10 once here.


4265 Spring Grove. Currently used as storage or something similar. Owned by proprietor of the Spring Grove Used Equipment Co.

Former location of Spring Grove Garage until 1978.


4257 Spring Grove. Currently rented as apartments.

The storefront has not been occupied by a business any time during study period (1970-present.)


4251 Spring Grove: Presently home to a wood-laminate products company: Malco Laminated Co.

I thought it was abandoned until I saw the doors propped open and men working inside.

former location of G & M Plating 1978-1987


Spring Grove looking West from the intersection with the Dooley Bypass.

Note healthy smog in background, also the old American Can factory. Its window glass was all removed when renovations began. Apparently the mortgage crisis has caused a some kind of pause in that work.


4231 Spring Grove: The Gypsy Hut. Currently an artsy hipster bar.

A bar with the same name (but dramatically different clientèle occupied this building for many years until sometime around 1978 when the name was changed to the New Edition. That bar closed around 1987. There was a reincarnation as the New Orleans Cafe, then the current owner(s) returned the bar to its historic title. My grandmother remembers the old Gypsy Hut as a neighborhood institution when she was younger.


4231 Spring Grove: The Gypsy Hut. Currently an artsy hipster bar.

The narrow building just to the left of the bar is 4229 Spring Grove, former home to the Mor Lite Greenhouse company until 1978. I am still trying to figure out why there is a steel door in the floor on the second story that is equipped with translucent glass blocks in it. I have never seen anything like it in another building.


4124 Spring Grove: Superior Chevrolet. My theory is that this is the dealership's original home. They probably started here when this was a busy industrial corridor, sometime in say the 50's. Then I-75 was built nearby in the 70's, shifting the local economic geography. The dealership moved to a new location with better highway access sometime in the 70's or 80's and retained this lot for more marginal activities, such as used cars.

Note the cheesy lights and strings of reflective streamers. You only see those at shitty used car lots in the inner city now. They were industry standard several decades ago. The lot is full of big cars and SUV's that no one wants to buy now that gas is $4 a gallon. (Haha I just bought a diesel 89 Jetta that gets 40 miles a gallon for $1200. I guess you have to think outside the box.)


4149 Spring Grove: Woody Sander Ford. This is probably Sander Ford's original location. The dealership likely moved over by the highway some time in the 70's or 80's to be in a location with better visibility. They use the old building for a body shop and for storage now.


4149 Spring Grove: Woody Sander Ford.

Note the curve in the showroom wall to the right. The curtain wall is composed of a series of plate-glass windows and the entrance is tucked in from the street in a little alcove. There is also a transom over the door. This is an art deco structure, likely built in the 30's or 40's, when dealership showrooms abutted the sidewalk and attracted foot traffic in with huge windows.


Intersection of Spring Grove and Mad Anthony. Typical small late 19th-century homes of this part of the neighborhood. Today this census tract is the neighborhood's poorest. The proliferation of small, inexpensive homes on small lots has created concentrated poverty. Few have driveways or garages and are thus obsolete housing in today's real estate market.


4111 Spring Grove: home of Autobahn Craftwerks since 2000.

former location of Behler Oldsmobile until 1970, Central Fleet Services until 1990, J & M Auto Service until 1997. This building was built in 1940, when dealership showrooms abutted the sidewalk and attracted window shoppers on foot with huge windows. That was when people who walked and rode streetcars everywhere were dreaming of a family car. In 1940 an Oldsmobile was an auspicious entry into the world of (semi) luxury motoring.


The American Can Building, 4101 Spring Grove Avenue, built 1921. The American Can Company vacated this building some time prior to 1973. The owner of Autobahn Craftwerks told me the company moved to South America to avoid union-demanded wage hikes.

The building was then home to the Cleveland Automatic Machine Tool Company, and some other machine shops, until some time in the late 90's

The building is currently slated for redevelopment by the same company who redeveloped the Ford Factory building at Lincoln and I-71. The planned mixed-use project will be the biggest development project in a Cincinnati neighborhood in decades.




The American Can Building, 4101 Spring Grove Avenue.


4055 Schott Monument Company. Has been in present location since at least 1973. They put three big blocks of granite out in front of their building to keep drunks and reckless motorists from running into it, should they miss the turn.


4041 Spring Grove: home of Northside Appliances.

This was the former location of the Step Inn Cafe until 1970. The Step Inn was one of a number of old blue-collar bars and restaurants that folded in the area when the industrial base went hard-core anemic.


A sign for a Checker Auto Parts Store that closed decades ago sits next to a van with flat tires and a bus stop. The building on right advertises free parking for Checker's customers.


4016 Spring Grove. Former home of Fisk Monument Co. They were in this location from at least 1973, until recently when they moved to a suburban location. Property is vacant and for sale.


4019 Spring Grove: now empty. Recently outfitted with new vinyl siding.

This building was home to Northside Automotive and Radiator, and then Autobahn Craftwerks until late 90's. The owner of Autobahn told me he inherited the shop from his father. He shifted the shop' focus from general mechanics to Volkswagens and later motorcycles. He now sells scooters and restored vintage bikes.


Mural on the wall of 4024 Hamilton at Cosby and Hamilton.


Knowlton's Corner looking Southwest


Hamilton Ave looking Northwest from Knowlton's Corner.


3927 Ludlow Ave: Stagecraft Costuming. The costume shop used to be open to the public. Not sure if it is open at all any more. Looks abandoned.


3938 Spring Grove. Former long-time home of Kay's Restuarant. Closed recently. The dining room has booths from the 60's and lights from a few decades before that. I have a theory that the building was originally built as a theater, thus explaining its ornate facade and the box-like protrusion from the rear roof line. I am sad I never got to eat here. Kay's was legendary with the city workers. Local news once did a bug story about how the city's municipal employees were in Kay's loafing around on the clock.



I took these pictures through the front window. Look how old everything in the dining room is. It reminds of Shay's Restaurant in Cleveland, where Harvey Pekar eats lunch in American Splendor. I have to hand it to Cleveland though, Shay's is grittier.





3942, 3940, Spring Grove Avenue. In 1973 the corner building was home to Muenchen's Furniture, which has since moved to Colerain Township. They left the location some time between 1978 and 1982. These buildings are now occupied by Casablanca Vintage clothing store. It is popular with some of the hipster kids, but they don't seem to make a lot of money. At least not if the condition of the plaster inside the store is any indication.



Row of empties: 3936, 3934, 3932 Spring Grove. 3932 (far right) was home to Marmer X-Ray Solutions until 1982 when KDM Signs moved in. Then Cincinnati Express Delivery occupied the building until 1987, then nothing since 1992. A used furniture store occupied 3934 (center) briefly in the mid-90's.


3935 and 3937 Spring Grove. The building on left was home to Hortons TV Repair until the late 70's. It then sat empty for years until recently when an import store and Southeast Asian restaurant moved into both buildings. This Italianate-style row house architecture is noteworthily Cincinnati.



3929 Spring Grove. The building was owned by the Salvation Army for many years. It was home to Preachers nightclub for a few years, then Alchemize. It is now vacant and for sale. This building reminds me of Cleveland.


An alley between 3934 and 3932 Spring Grove.


Detail of 3932 Spring Grove. Note curtains billowing in the breeze that blows through all the broken windows.


3925 Spring Grove: former long-time home of the Idle Hour Cafe. By the sound of it, it was likely a workingman's bar and lunch spot. The Idle Hour disappeared in the early 80's The building fell into massive neglect and is slowly being pieced back together. It's pretty huge.






An empty building painted with a cartoon Indian advertising Liberty Tire, which disappeared in the late 90's



Non-PC advertising?


4012 Spring Grove Avenue: former long-time home of Ohio Automotive Parts. A faded sign advertises that the parts store also offered full machine-shop service. The business closed in the early 90's and the building has been vacant since.


A sign for a Checkers Auto Parts Store that closed decades ago sits next to a van with flat tires and a bus stop. The rustbelt in microcosm: a long-gone light industrial business, a dead car, and people who lack both cars and blue-collar jobs.




























2 comments:

Mitchell Sipus said...

All of these photos with your notes reminds me of working for Gray and Pape. I know you really lost interests in the processes of Historic Preservation, but all I did is exactly what you did here. It really makes me miss Ohio actually... I don't really understand the dynamics of the built environment within Cairo like I do in the midwest. Back home I could read a city by its buildings, its sidewalks, and its people... here I'm completely disoriented all the damn time.

Tom V said...

I liked these kind of photos. Raw.
The closest I've been to Cleveland was watching American Splendor, but there's something about the suburbs of Cleveland that's makes it different from Long Island. Thanks for sharing.